Hi. I'm Ted, from Everything Attachments. We're here today with our own
design from Everything Attachments of a garden bedder. We've tried to do
all the things that I would want to do for myself to have my own bedder.
One of the things we started out doing, because these shipped ground to your
door, the sharp edges that are normally at a lot of different places, all
of that has been cut out with a Whitney, which is a high-definition plasma
cutter. All the holes are punched as this is cut, so this is being made in
a $700,000 machine, instead of just a simple machine shop. This definitely
comes out of a high-quality shop, to my standards. It's painted here at our
shop. They go out fresh.
We're going to give you a couple of the options that are on this. One is it
does have the option of the furrowing attachment, if you want to be able to
V out the center of your bed for your planting, that is optional. It's got
the shovel, or the bull tongue, already bolted to it.
These are your bedding discs, and that's what going to cause the dirt to
pile up here in the center, and you'll see that in the working video. These
are 14 inch bedding discs instead of the 12 that's on the GB-48 that we
sell for another company. This also has a true roller bearing in it,
instead of just some sleeves of pipe and some grease. We're going to show
you on the back what we've done to help these stems hold in place without
having to buy another piece from China. We've put all of our thoughts
together and just tried to simply make you a higher-quality, easier to use,
piece of equipment.
At Everything Attachments, our trademark is 'Quality by Design'. Some of
the things we've done, we fabricated our own stem holder, which on the GB-
60 has 4 holes, on the GB-50 it has 2, and it would just be in the center.
What that does is, these 2 pieces of 3/8ths steel give a good pinching
area, an area where that round stem can fit and pinch into those two areas
causing you to not have to tighten your U-bolts as tight as you do with
this casted stem holder. Because this casted stem holder was back from the
good old day, from when the Farmalls were built and used all this equipment
and the Cubs, and they were designed for an 1 ¼-inch stem.
All of the stems that come in now, unfortunately that are imported, are a
little bit under 1¼-inch, so it doesn't actually fit perfectly, but it will
hold it tight if you really tighten down on the U-bolts onto this. Just to
get away from just one more Chinese-made piece and try to give an American
a job, we're fabricating our own steel pieces which have 2 pieces of 3/8ths
rod that give you an area where your stem fits in the middle, and then it
just pinches in between these two areas here, giving you a lot more holding
power without having to really torque down on the bolts as much. We're
doing as much as we can to get away from the Chinese products. Slowly but
surely, we'll work our way further and further away from them.
These are a true bearing in these hubs with a casted hub on these discs,
and these are 14 inches. On the GB-48, from another manufacturer that we
sell that does fine, it uses a 12 inch disc instead of a 14, and does not
have a true bearing. It uses similar to what would be called and old roller
style bearing, like for what roller chain was, and that's simply a pipe
inside of a pipe; relies on grease. It does work; I've never had any really
failures, but the bearing is going to last a lot longer. With the 14 inch
disc, you're going to get a larger hill or bed made. We think that all of
these attachments just end up making a higher-quality piece, and what I
would want it to be for myself.
Here at Everything Attachments, if you have any questions about sizing the
right bedder for your tractor, or any of the options that you may need,
you're welcome to call or give us an email. We'll help you out and get you
the right one for your purposes. Make all of your purchases at Everything
Attachments.
Video 2
Hi, so we're standing in a group of attachments and I've got a few others. But everything here is built at Everything Attachments, welded, painted, and done in-house with as much American-used materials as we can find. We're getting ready to use the garden bedder here, and you'll notice it has two different three-point hitches on it. It has a low narrow, for like a subcompact, a BX Kubota, a John Deer '05 Series, the little Massey Ferguson GC series. Any of the subcompacts in the small, even the B Kubota and so forth, would probably prefer this bottom hook up that's narrow.
For the bigger, full-size tractors, this could be used on any sized tractor, it will just work better on a small one. But here is your full-size three-point hitch attachment, the full 26 inches apart. This one is shown with the optional furrowing attachment and shovel. This one also has the optional C-tines with the sweeps on them. And you can angle these over to the side and create more width. And what this is for is to go right in the path of the tire path so you don't have a packed area in your ground.
Now, if you already have a garden cultivator, you can bed your garden and then go back over it with your cultivator and get up your hard spots and you won't have to buy these extra attachments. Now on the GB60 which is designed for bigger tractors, it comes automatically with the extra C-tines, the stems, and the sweeps. It does have an optional furrowing attachment. We've just designed this, we hadn't even painted it yet, and so we're going to see how this works. Behind making. . . that was a design that I got from several other bedders I looked at.
I've kind of tried to look at everything and then pick what's the best for me. And it seems to me it makes more sense to have the furrowing attachment behind your bed so you can leave a V in it, instead of before it, because on that right there you can use the furrowing attachment, but mainly you would use it with removing the disc here, so you can just simply make a furrow for your seeds where you're not using a bed. But all your squash, potatoes, and things like that, if you don't put them up on a hill and you get a lot of rain, they'll simply rot. So that's why you want a bed.
So we're going to hook the little tractor to the little bedder and use it first. Okay, so I got the U-bolt design here from a larger unit that was a 60 inch unit. And that's what the bigger unit is, it's 60 inches. The thing I didn't like about the single U-bolt was there's nothing really to keep this thing when you start making a bed, it wants to push these discs apart. And these discs, no matter how tight you tighten it, are going to lean a little bit. It ain't going to hurt anything but it looks a little odd. And with this double row on the heavier duty unit, there's no way it can turn. They're going to stay straight.
So even the U-bolts, the plates they're made on, everything we're having made here in-house, it costs us a lot more to make this plate in-house on a Whitney and paint it and all than it does to get that little knuckle from China. But it's just what we're going to do. Our units cost a little bit more, but we support our workers. We put on several workers in just the last week. And we put on several new welders, so we're increasing the work around us and that's what we intend to keep doing, and keep everything as American-made as we possibly can.
So first we're going to give this GB50 a run. And with the holes in the U-bolts the way they are, it makes it the easiest to adjust. And with these optional sweeps on here, it's going to allow us to take our tire track out. So give it a whirl, Peanut, and we'll start making our bed rows. And remember that this furrowing attachment is also an accessory that makes real nice furrows to make your trenches for your seeds. Even the U-bolts and everything that we have here we're going through the trouble and the extra expense. They are U.S. made. The one thing I'm sure is not U.S. made and I might as well say it is these discs here. I've not come up with a source for the bearing and hub, and unfortunately they have "Made in China" casted really deep in them. So, there's no deception going on, it's just the way it is right now and I intend to keep trying to work to make everything U.S. made.
Now, there's going be a definite adjustment between the bedding disc and the sweeps and we'll just have to make that as we go to see where we start. So as you can see, it's bringing it up into a hill. And the reason the furrowing attachment is not working is because it's in front instead of behind, and we are designing one to go behind this unit instead of in front of this unit. And you can see the sweeps are taking up the tire tread so we're leaving no hard places in the garden. I would really go for the sweep option on this, I believe, to keep that tread out of there so I didn't immediately have to go ahead and put another tool like a cultivator or a hand tiller in here.
Okay, so with the hitch that I've designed, and you're going to find this hitch on a lot more of my implements, I love a clevis hitch instead of a pin hitch. And that makes a quick hitch really easy to use, where you're going to hang your pins and hang your top pins, so you've got free area here to be able to hook. And that's going to hook to standard hitch in the bottom or a John Deere iMatch hitch in the top. You'll notice that I have the same exact hitch on our landscaping rake. So it's got the clevis with the open area and the duel pin holes. All right? So since this is all brand new, we're probably going to have to do some adjusting on the height of the sweeps, possibly the bedders, and then this is brand new. We definitely are going to have to do a little trying to see where to get the furrow behind the bed to get it right. I'm going to guess we're going to need to raise it. So this is the GB60. I also have a GB70, which we'll have available next week, which will be 70 inches wide for even larger tractors.
So to me, for a small garden, smaller tractors make better gardening tractors than big tractors. So instead of using the Chinese knuckles that everybody uses to hold these stems, we've taken a piece of 3/8ths plate, we've punched it, it's got nice, round areas, then we welded two 3/8ths rods to it where the spindle just cradles right at the top without touching at the back and you don't have to tighten them near as tight to keep them straight. So this works really good, and it's made in America. All right, so we've readjusted the sweeps up. The bedders doing well. All right, stop, Peanut. Peanut! Hold on. Let me adjust this sweep up here. Sweep still needs to come up. It's making a good bed but the sweeps knocking it right back down. It needs to come another 3 or 4 inches. So we'll get it right on the next pass.
Alright, so we've raised the furrowing attachment a little bit more and we still got all the different adjustments. One way or another we can adjust it the way we want it. So now it's starting to just knock the very top off that hill. I believe I came up just a little bit too far. All right, so on the last pass we really didn't like what we had. I had the furrowing attachment too low and it was just knocking too much of the hill down. So what we've done is we've moved the bedders about 3 inches apart, giving us 6 inches total, we've readjusted our furrowing attachment, and we're going to give it a try again. What we're looking for is a good, wide bed, and then fine tuning this to putting a V in the center for the furrowing attachment.
Okay, it's putting a nice, big, wide, bed in it. The furrowing attachment is almost perfectly adjusted. I can change that with a simple top-link adjustment. That's going to adjust about everything I want. The one thing I see is we didn't turn the sweeps back to the outside. So that's got a nice bed to it. You got a big, wide bed. You got a small trench in the center. We're this close to getting it perfect. Once you get it right you shouldn't ever really have to adjust it again unless you're changing your beds for some other different type of plant.
We're almost perfect. So we need these to go in a little deeper and they're not. They're spread to the inside, so I'm going to see if I can just knock this over a little bit. Get that adjusted. I'm going to shorten up the top link, which is going to raise those. . . excuse me, I'm going to lengthen the top link, it's going to make these go a little lower, and it's going to make this go a little lower. All right, let's try that, Peanut.
Now that's about perfect. It's bringing up the tread pattern. Got a nice little V in the top of the bed because it's working behind the bedder attachment. It doesn't get much better than that. Beats my wife out here with blisters on her hand with a hoe. Okay, on the last pass when we had it almost perfect, I cheated a little bit and kicked these out to where they were in the center of the path and that's not really the way to do it. And so what I've done is I've angled this stem here over, so this runs straight. I've lowered this about another half an inch, and we should be almost perfect here.
Nice big furrow with a little V down the middle. You just don't get any better bed than that.
So my wife's got all her plants already started in the little plastic things that come with the little expandable dirt pea pods. And so within a week, we'll have plants 6 or 8 inches high here now that the dirt just starting to get warm. But it's going to be really easy for her to plant, being that she can just push them in the ground and go straight down through there. That's the perfect bed. The only thing I could do to make it better is to go down just a little bit more with the sweeps to take down a little more.
So right now you're looking at the ones that were made by the GB60. And really the only final difference is going to be that one has the furrowing attachment in front, which we're going to show you. This one has the furrowing attachment behind it where you're able to leave your little trench, which that's good. So we will have a furrowing attachment for the GB50 to go behind it real quick, since we know that works well. So as you come up through here, you'll notice right where the V quits, which is going to be we did 4 rows with the GB50 before we used the 60 and there just simply is no V. After it's been tilled so much the grounds good, it's easy enough to do it by hand but it's nice to have it already there.
Okay, so this is our GB50, which I'm not sure I would always spend the extra money to put the sweeps behind a tractor that doesn't weight as much as a big tractor. If you're going to have a cultivator, you can go back over it and do it anyway. I'm a firm believer that this furrowing attachment needs to be moved to the back to be able to put the furrow behind the bed. So that change will be made shortly. On the GB60, even on the 50 with the U-bolts we were using, it did not spread these hardly any like I've seen on some others do. So with the GB60, you've got a double row, there's no real way that anything can move or slide. And definitely having the furrowing attachment behind us was a good thing.
We hope you've enjoyed our videos. At Everything Attachments, we'll be happy to answer any of your questions, help size these units for you. We will also have this in a 70 inch for the bigger tractors, you just have to keep making your rows further apart. Give us a call or email at Everything Attachments and we'll make sure that you get the right attachment as quick as possible. And one of the reasons why we keep this down to 48 inches, we're able to ship this to your house, U.P.S. without having to go to a shipping terminal like you will with the 60 or the 70. We put all of these attachments in a separate box and send this in a separate box right to your house. We can even do that with the 60, but the 70, you definitely we're going to have to use a commercial business or a trucking terminal.
Video 3
Here from Everything Attachments where today with the Garden GB50. this is for small tractors but yet it does have the standard category 1 hook as you
can see the bottom hook, which will allow small tractors to be able to to go deeper with this side because the pieces are fairly low. It allows you to have a lower toppling call a lower narrow here and then and has a wider high for a larger tractor so we can still get it down to the ground.
We've raised the hood here because we're not gonna really need it for this really good loose dirt here to play any and we've set the distance apart a little
further than the lift on this one in about the same as the standard as we did with our last one and we're gonna go back over where we just use the culti packer because we just did that for play purposes like he would do in a field or go over this with the garden bedder where we did our goal to packing. We're gonna make about two more rows and they're going to save the rest of it for tomatoes and stuff like that that. We won't need for you to go and give it a try pain and so what we did on this was just like on the GB60 where I said you could cheat and move the L brackets to the outside and gain for a wider tractor.
We've cheated instead of having to move these completely we just turned onto the inside and straighten them up directly behind the tires so we could move them over but you can cheat a little bit by angling them this the way. I've designed this to two pieces of rod here it really tight and hard with the sheer bow so it'll stay wherever you put it, if you typed it proper. Given around it's bringing back up the tire tread where it's a little bit hard with that tractor with the wider tires did make it hard but we need to take some pressure so you want to get it back out. It also leaves a little trough beside the bed where the water can gather where it doesn't get up on the top of squashing. Thanks to make it rock but keeps the water there to constantly feed. The perfect plan for cucumbers and so forth like. I'm gonna put in that particular the garden we're pretty much done with through the day we may hook up the cultivator and just go over a row and show you how that would work. Then we're pretty much done so I hope that you give us a call and email everything attachments for any your needs will help size these these garden pieces or anything else you need for your size tractor and for the purpose you're using it for.