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Model
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SLE-120
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SLE-140
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SLE-160
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SLE-190
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Working Width(in)
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47
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55
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64
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74
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Rated HP
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20-45
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25-45
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30-45
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35-45
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Weight(lbs)
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485
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530
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582
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660
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Number of Y Blades
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44
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52
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60
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72
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Number of Ducksfoot
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22
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26
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30
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36
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Hitch
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3 Point Cat. I
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3 Point Cat. I
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3 Point Cat. I
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3 Point Cat. I
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Rotor Diameter(in)
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4.5
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4.5
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4.5
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4.5
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Rotor Tube Thickness(in)
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5/16
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5/16
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5/16
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5/16
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Swing Diameter(in)
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14.6
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14.6
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14.6
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14.6
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Rear Roller Diameter(in)
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5.5
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5.5
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5.5
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5.5
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Rotor Speed(RPM)
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2,356
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2,356
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2,356
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2,356
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Knives Tip Spread (FPM)
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8,984
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8,984
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8,984
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8,984
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Extended Information:
Hi, I'm Ted from Everything Attachments, and we're here today with the Sicma brand of flail mower. This is distributed by the Phoenix brand. That's what it's sold under, is a Phoenix. This is a Category I flail mower, and a flail mower is a mower that can mow just as good as you would want a football field mowed or your front yard, or it can also take brush and light stuff similar to a bush, although not quite as heavy, but stuff up to an inch, saplings and stuff like that with no problem. They're used by a lot of the right-of-way mowing people, people that mow pastures, side roads, and all that kinda stuff where they come across a mix of good grass and the small saplings and things like that.
This particular unit here is the 78-inch cutting width, which puts it a little over 8 feet in total overall width. The 78-inch has 4 belts, there are 5 sizes of these starting at 57 inches, that starts with 3 belts, and then the last 2 biggest ones have 4 belts. This has the regular T-shaped design flail underneath it, and we'll pick this up and show it to you in a minute. There is also an ax head design, where it takes up the place of two of these teeth and is for more aggressive, bigger stuff but isn't gonna leave a pretty cut on a lawn. This is a pretty unique hitch on it, it's offsetable. You can move this hitch from here to here without even messing with your back brace. It has a universal back there that lets it float, similar to what's on the end of a pull arm of a tractor. And you can also get it with a hydraulic offset, so if you're cutting beside the road or something, you're coming up on a mailbox, you can offset it to one side, put it back without even having to get outta your track, and there's different reasons why when you switch different sides of the road, if right-of-way cuttings and stuff is what you're doing, that you can offset it differently for your tractor, or to offset it if you're using a mid-mount mower and a flail mower and you want there to be no path in the middle that's left uncut.
So the hydraulic option is just a little over $400 and probably's not a bad option if you're gonna use it a lot, especially if you're gonna use it with a mid-cutter. But we'll show the underneath of this in just a little bit. It's got the kickstands to make it easy to hook to, because without the kickstands it's gonna wanna lay over on you. It uses a heavy-duty Euro car dam [SP], Italian-made driveshaft, and they've replaced the chains in front of this with a solid piece of steel here. They're all individually done, and that way the chains can't go to one side to let debris and stuff to come through. It's a solid path, it's gonna keep you cleaner because as this turns, it tries to throw the debris forwards instead of backwards, which means up on you. So I like that new solid path there as a safety device. Cast iron gearbox, solid drive line to the end of your belts.
It also has two different hook-ups here for your top link. The higher you go, the more it's gonna rotate for the smaller tractors to let you lift it higher. If you're mowing grass and want a good cut, it has a...we'll show you the roller all the way across the back. What you would wanna do on the...for the...for grass mowing is, you're gonna use your lift arms to set the front height, and then this pin right here where your top link hooks, you want to be in the middle. So when you're lifting the front, which is gauging on the rear roller, and you get the right cutting height, as the ground varies, you want your top link in here moving instead of trying to pick up the mower or let the mower down. You're just simply floating on your lift arms, or you can lock it rigid in either of these two holes, whichever you like, depending on the ground conditions that you're on.
It's a pretty thick machine from front to back. It has a huge bearing assembly under here, under these five bearings here. It's greasable in the center. You're able...this is where you're gonna...all these holes here are gonna be what's gonna adjust your roller on the back. So you can see here where your upper brace is on an angle, and that's because it's offset to this direction over here, and then you can just simply remove two bolts on each side. You can move it over to this side, that's gonna give you about a foot of offset. And just remember, instead of having to do the bolts, you could do it hydraulically for in the $400 to $500 range, and if you had to do it a lot, that'd be a cheap $400 or $500. It's got a really neat thing underneath it that I've never seen on any flail mower that's kinda like a teeth across it that are right at the edge where the flails come up by to help shred your debris so you're not leaving such big a pieces.
Okay, so now that we've got it up off the ground, we just wanted to be able to show you the serrated teeth underneath here that are gonna be right at the end of the flails. So, once you start cutting and you get into thick grass, brush, things like that, then those serrated teeth are gonna help cut it, and this is what I meant by the flails, and they're really heavy and thick, and they work by centrifugal force. So that's partly what a bush hog does also, or a brush cutter. So it mows grass really good, and if you get into something real thick or something, if it's too big, the centrifugal force is gonna be holding these out level, and then if it hits something, they can kick back. That's why they don't have any problem really going through saplings and stuff up to an inch, and when you're in high grass and stuff and debris, that's when those teeth up here are gonna help shred that up and not leave it in clumps and debris. This is your solid steel roller that's in the back that you're gonna be rolling that on while your front lift arms are picking it up here. So this is kinda what you use as your gauge wheel when you've got several settings over on the side to control your heighth of cut.
So we're real happy to have their brand new design from Sicma and Phoenix. So if you got any call...any questions, just give us a call or an email at Everything Attachments and we'll be happy to help.
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