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Model
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YJC 042
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YJC 048
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YJC 052
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YJC 062
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YJC 074
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Recommended Tractor HP
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15-33
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18-39
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18-40
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26-45
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40-60
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Tiller size
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Length
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24.6
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24.6
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22.1
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26
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26
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Width
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46
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51.6
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57.3
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66.2
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77.9
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Height
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32.3
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32.3
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31.9
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33.5
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33.5
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Weight
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303 LBS
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330 LBS
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373 LBS
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533 LBS
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588 LBS
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Tilling Width
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42
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48
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52
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62
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74
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Tilling Depth(Max)
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6 1/2
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6 1/2
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6 1/2
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8
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8
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No. of Flanges
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4
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5
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6
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6
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7
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No. of Blades
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16
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20
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36
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36
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42
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Hitch
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Cat 0 & I
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Cat 0 & I
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Cat 0 & I
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Cat I & II
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Cat I & II
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Rotor Swing Diameter
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15.8
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15.8
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15.7
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19.2
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19.2
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The Everything Attachments Chain Drive Tiller in Action
Hi. I'm Ted, from Everything Attachments. We're here today with the Everything Attachments Tiller; this tiller is 48-inch. Most of our tillers have 6 blades per rotor; this has 4 blades per rotor. The reason why this is a 48-inch tiller, it's going to be on a low horsepower tractor. You're going to be going fairly slowly compared to a bigger-horsepower tractor. When you're going really slowly, instead of just pulverizing your soil which is going to make it get harder later, the 4 blades will leave it a little bit coarser. You can still control your consistency with the tailgate on the back. I'll show you that.
The holes are in here, if you wanted to put 6 blades on it, but with a smaller tiller, you do better with 4 blades because it lets you pull it at a faster rate, and not just sit there and pulverize it so much, so when it rains it turns into more like concrete.
This tiller can be offset. Right now for the subcompact tractors, 48 inches will probably cover your tracts. In that case, the pins both to the inside would be the easiest to hookup, because on most subcompact tractors, you're stabilizers are coming to the inside instead of to the outside of the axel, so it's easier to hook up on the inside. If you've got a little bit larger tractor and you want to offset it, you can move your pins that way, offset it to one side. You can offset it to either side, or you can set it in the middle, especially if you're using a quick hitch. This would work on a quick hitch, in the middle setting.
Your drive shaft . . . I've got it on the backside just so you can see into the rotor better, and we'll go over that. Your top link here is full-free underneath, so you can get to it with a standard Quick Attach. You've got a 540-RPM standard shaft on the front.
Come over here to the side, Peanut. It's a powder-coated finish; good, heavy-duty tiller. Good enough that we'll put our name on it and stand behind it. This has a greaseable side on it. This is your non-drive side, but it is greaseable here. You have four holes in your skid shoes here, to adjust your height of how much you're tilling.
Come on around to the back. This gearbox has a spherical gear in it, the same as the rear-end in a car, instead of straight-cut gears. They're meant to run just constantly and to be a lot quieter. This gearbox has a 5-year warranty on it. The rest of the tiller has 1-year, except for the blades, the clutch disk, and the slip clutch.
You have a chain here, where you can adjust the rear tailgate. The further down you leave it, the more it's going to chop it. The more you leave it open, the courser it is. You don't always want it just as fine as you can get it, just due to the fact that when it rains, it's going to get harder, especially if you have our red clay. If you're in sandy ground, good loam ground, it may not matter as much.
On the drive shaft, because a tiller uses a gearbox that's really close to the tractor, cutting your shaft is really critical not to get it to short. What I recommend doing is putting the tiller on your tractor, getting it exactly like you want it, adjust your top link properly so it isn't leaning real far back or real far forward, and then putting the shaft on your tiller. For instance, if this was your PTO shaft and it was here, you would need to cut approximately 4 inches off the shaft, and you would have to do that from both sides. We have a video on our main website on the how-to videos on how to cut your shaft. There's one problem: This shaft is super, super heavy-duty. Where I did it with a hand hacksaw, you could do it, but it's going to be pretty tough. This is a 6-sided shaft, it's really thick, so a power saw would be your friend instead of a hacksaw, but I could do it with a hacksaw if I had to.
Come around here to this side. That is the heaviest drive shaft I've seen in a long time. This is a chain-drive model. Out of all the tillers I've sold in many years, I've never had a failure due to a chain-drive. The truth is, chains are good; gears are good. What gears don't like are chatter. A tiller a lot of times, with changing conditions, you do get chattering. On these smaller tillers where the gears would be small, I really prefer a chain-drive. This is a chain-drive. It fills right here. That's your check level. You fill this up until it runs out that plug, and that is your drain.
This has a really nice kickstand: 1 pin, flip it up. You're going to need that, because that's basically a wheel, and this is going to be hard to hookup without some type of kickstand.
Come on back around to the front. With the different combinations of being able to offset it easily without even needing any ridges, good heavy-duty top link here, a 5-year warranty on the gearbox, and this being an Everything Attachments Tiller; we're willing to give you all the service and help you need, making sure you make the right choice for your tractor.
Just give us a call or an email. We'll be happy to help you.
Video 2
All right. While we're doing our gardening here today, we're going to use an Everything Attachments tiller; this is a chain-drive. A chain-drive's what I prefer myself for anything under 60 inches, until the tiller gets big enough to have big enough gears in there to withstand the chatter that gears don't really like. On everything under 60 inches I prefer a chain. Everything after that, I'm fine with a gear.
This does have a big greasable side on the far side. The good thing about a Bobcat tractor, and I like the Bobcat tractors, is this is the smallest Bobcat tractor; it's a Category 1 compact. It has a lift on the back of it that will go to the full width of a full Category 1. It also has the telescopic stabilizer bars, which I really prefer over the turnbuckle chains. If you have a BX Kubota, the subcompact John Deere, or anything that's considered to be a subcompact, you're most likely going to have your chains going from the inside of the bars towards the middle. If that's the case, instead of having to unloosen those to get them over the edge of the pin, then you can simply, there's plenty of room over here on this with this pin slid all the way to the inside, you can hook up on the inside and it works just fine. This tiller does have a slip clutch on it, so if Peanut hits a rock or something, he's going to slip the clutch instead of shear a pin or tear something up.
We're going to let . . . this is first time we've had any groundbreaking this year. Because we plowed this in the fall before it started freezing, we plowed it with an Everything Attachments plow, turned everything over; it sat all winter, it's froze and thawed, so that really breaks up the ground good. If we tried to plow it now, because it's been a garden for more than 5 years, if we tried to plow the ground now, it's not going to rollover like it will in the fall because it's so loose from being froze and thawed all year. The only thing we'll need to do in the spring after it's been in the ground, after we've had a garden here 4 or 5 years, is use the roto-tiller, that's going to blend all these leaves and all the pelletized lime and the fertilizer in together.
We've got the chain setting on the back to keep it from getting too ground up in there. We want to leave it just a little bit coarse, but we want everything to mix good, that's why he's going slow; but we've got the gate setting open so it won't totally pulverize it. The Everything Attachments brand tiller does use a C-shaped tine, just like the Sigma tiller, and I think that's the best shape of all the tines I've seen.
It may take him two passes to get all those leaves blended into that red soil pretty good, but that's okay. We don't have but a small garden to do today. As you can see, the ground's buried about halfway up on the gearbox. People ask how deep will they go. They're only meant to go about 5 o 6 inches on this size tiller, but the looser the ground is and the better the ground is, the further that it just simply will go if you let it. The slides are on the position that will let it go in as deep as it can.
You can hear the motor kind of bog just a little bit with that 52-inch tiller. That's the smallest of the Bobcat tractors with only 22 horsepower. That's going to put it somewhere near the 17 range on the PTO. This tiller can do it, it'd be no problem, even if that was a 60-inch tiller. The ratings on tillers are a little bit difficult because every condition is different. If this was on broken ground, then it would take a lot more horsepower per foot than this garden's going to take.
Peanut's made one complete pass over the whole garden. He's making a second pass real quick, and really, this was two very large dump truck-loads of compost on here. It actually made our red soil a lot darker than I thought it would, which is great. We get a lot of people that email us and just wonder if this red clay will even grow anything, and actually, it does grow pretty well. We wanted to keep it where it wouldn't get so hard and stuff in between rains, make it easier to cultivate, make the garden better, work better, and just grow the vegetables better in general.
The thing about this red clay is it will get hard as rock. We live in Catawba County, where the Catawba County Indians are from, and some of their pottery is some of the most sought-after in the world. It's some really good red clay, but we just wanted to get some darkness and some richness into this soil so our melons and stuff do the best they can. We're going to let Peanut continue to do the final passes here with the Everything Attachments tiller. You can hear the power of the tractor come and go as Peanut goes faster or if he goes deeper. That's a 52-inch chain-
drive tiller, and it is so super-quiet with the spherical gears in there that I'm really impressed with that. I love the C-shaped tines. Everything about this tiller's doing exactly what I wanted it to so far. He's only got a few more minutes worth of tilling to go through. He's tilling at a pretty fast pace, and that's just because the ground's broken up that well. This is about the fifth year we've had a garden here. This is my wife's garden. If you don't believe me, just ask her. As soon as I'm through here, it's about the last time she'll let me in it. We'll get Peanut done here, we're going to go ahead and use the garden bedder, make us some nice rows so she can plant all of her
Video 3Okay, so this is the Everything Attachments tiller. That's what we brand it as. This is our house brand. It's actually made in South Korea by the company that builds the Ansung, so it's top quality tiller. It's everything. It's laser cut on it. It has the C-shaped tine instead of the L, and I've used them side by side before and a C-shape tine just simply cuts all the way through versus the L shape tine. The results are dramatically different. You can see it in one pass, that's why we've stuck with the C-shaped tine for what we wanted. These are extra heavy built. I did a video with this exact same tiller on my 23-horsepower Bobcat. It's actually a little bigger than a BX, but this has more horsepower. It actually loaded my BX pretty good on the horsepower end of it. Even though this tractor is smaller, it's got more PTO power. PTO power is what it's all about when it goes to turning these rotavators. We've adjusted everything on it to be pretty close to start out with. It will hook up to a category two tractor, even on this little tractor if you wanted it to. And it does have these long pins in it, that if we wanted to, we could have actually put the lift arms even further on the inside, but on this case, we already had it adjusted for our other disc. This was the same dimension. That's why I really like a clevis hitch or an inside hitch for these inside stabilizers where I don't have to keep adjusting them every time. We've adjusted the top link down quite a bit where the slides are almost flat. The slides are adjusted all the way up. A tiller will basically, even though they're only meant to till this deep, if you go over it more than once, it will continue to drop but you shouldn't go past the center of the axle. The bigger the tiller, the bigger the whole rotating piece is, but the center line of the axle is about as deep as you should go on the tiller for a lot of reasons. So, we're going to give the other half of this garden that we didn't do with the disc a shot with the rotavator and see where we go from there. So just head down through there and start coming back and forth, and work that way.The only thing I wanted to say is that on every tiller, because the gearbox is not far away like a Bush Hog and you've only got the distance between your lift arms and your PTO shaft, it's real critical on every tiller application, big or small, that you make sure your drive shaft, your PTO shaft, is the correct length. Now we've already cut this one so we know it's right for this BX. So just make sure that that's right, and if you let somebody borrow your tiller, you're taking a chance on it not being right for their tractor and damaging your own PTO. So just keep that in mind. What I usually do is I get it close, I cut the tractor off, hook the PTO up, and then back up and continue to hook up the three-point hitch because it's really, really tight in there on these little tractors. There's a couple other adjustments you ought to be aware of. If you don't want your ground really pulverized, then the best thing to do is raise this tailgate a little bit with your chain and that's going to keep it from being trapped in and recirculated so much. Now, on every tiller that I sell that's for Everything Attachments and anything that I recommend or I'm going to use, is definitely going to have a slip clutch on it because...this has been gone through. Most of the rocks have been gotten out of it. In most cases, they're not. You hit roots, rocks and different things, and you will be out here changing shear bolts all day if you have a shear bolt tiller. Bush Hogs, you can usually get by with either unless they're really big. I like a slip clutch only, but on a tiller, I hate a shear pin and a slip clutch is the only way to go. But when you have a slip clutch, it takes up some space and you're on a short tractor with a short drive shaft, be really careful that you don't over cut. Cut twice if you have to to make sure you don't get your PTO too short from the top to bottom height, then it comes apart. Go ahead, Peanut. And what a tiller will do because they're pulling that weight, a tiller will actually try to push the tractor.So you can see it's doing, in one pass, about what the disc here does in two or three passes.So with the extra horsepower this BX has over my 23-horsepower Bobcat, it's not even phasing it, power-wise. And a tiller is never hard to pull because it's actually trying to push the tractor. So I've got the tailgate about where I like it, adjusted just far enough out there that it didn't pulverize it. It's letting it clear the stuff out of the back, but yet, it's still rubbing the ground and leaving a flat spot. If it's hitting anything hard there instead of having to change shear bolts, the clutch might be slipping a little bit, but it simply goes right back to working and you'll never know it.So you do always goes slower with a tiller than you would with a disc.And that big clump of clay that's going over is taller than the tractor, but it's going to work.So you can hear the power of the tractor. It is pulling it down a little bit, but it's got plenty of power for that 52-inch tiller. This is a chain drive. We do offer gear drives. The facts of it are in the smaller tillers where you get a chatter going on...I like the chain, actually, better on anything less than 60 inches, for sure, than I do the gear because the gears are just not as large on a small tiller. A chain doesn't mind being slapped back and forth a little bit, meaning chatter, and gears don't like that at all. So with the bigger tillers where the gears are large, I like a gear-drive tiller just fine. I think it's the heavier way to go. But on the smaller ones, I personally prefer the chain drives and that's what this is. It has a chain drive on one side and a old bearing on the other side that is sealed to keep the dirt out. I've looked at a lot of tillers, and definitely, the Chinese tillers I'm not having any part of. There's some other tillers that are sold by Woods and Bush Hog and different companies that are American companies, but they're actually importing their tillers and the only thing about it is the decals being changed. So out of all of the tillers, I think the King Kutter we do sell. It is an American made frame. It uses all Chinese gearboxes. It's a good tiller. A lot of people really like them. It does have the L-shape tine which I'm not a big fan of instead of the C-shaped tine, but it is an American-made tiller. I love that. But the facts of it are the Chinese gearboxes versus the South Korean gearboxes, and these have a spiral helical gear in it like a ring gear and pinion in a car instead of just cut beveled gears, and they simply will outlast them and outperform them. And the South Korean quality has come a long way. The Hyundai cars are everywhere, so are the Kias. And they've come a long way. The Chinese cars just never really made it because of the quality.See, he's on that ridge. That ridge is piled all the way up into the top and it's really taking a lot of power out of the tractor, but it's got it.So I'd go over the whole thing, start at this end one more time. Just go over the whole thing and we'll see how the total results are. So right now, I think you've got a pretty equal quality between one pass of a tiller and three passes with the disc harrow, and then we're going to go over it all, one more time.I think the tiller really helps do...that back tailgate. When that dirt's loose and that back tailgate gets a hold of it, it acts like a little bit of land grader. And it's not heavy but when the grounds that loose, it doesn't take much to leave it really nice and level. And we do offer reverse tine tillers, but the only thing I think a reverse tine tiller does better is something it's not even really even designed to do, and that's landscaping where it can actually get under the sod while it's pulling forward. Tillers are not really designed for that, but a lot of people do use them for that.Now, the only thing I have against backing up with a tiller, it isn't really going to hurt the tines, but if you catch that tailgate on that back edge and you've got a big enough tractor, you can back up and bend that tailgate.Keep in mind that on the part that has been used with the disc harrow, that was with our very smallest disc harrow and of course, the bigger the disc harrow, the heavier the disc harrow, the better it's going to perform. But you're going to need a bigger tractor. It's starting to rain here a little bit in North Carolina, so hopefully we can finish this up pretty quick and come back and use the rest of these tools tomorrow. So he's going to give this a pass over where it's been disked already. And he doesn't realize it, but he's actually further over to the right than it's been plowed. So he's taken a little new ground to the right and some of the plowed ground to the left. That's why it's taking all the horsepower that tractor's got right now.So some people only use a tiller to make a garden. They don't plow and that's not what I recommend. Even though you do end up with six inches of loose soil and it plants well, it starts off the plants well, but when they get half season, it gets dry, that foot that you've got in-depth with the plow just makes all the difference in the world of where the rest of your crop goes from mid-summer on.Now, he's got that tiller buried right now, pulling all of the horsepower out of that little BX, which is doing an awesome job. So if a BX is what you have or if you're looking at buying a sub-compact, you sure have enough tractor to do just about anything you want to do. And we try to make the right grapples, plows, box blades and everything to fit these smaller tractors to do the same thing a big tractor can do, but on its own scale. Drone dead again?So that's one pass each way on top of the disked area. Let's go to the area that's just been plowed that hasn't had the disc on it at all. And it is going to take some extra passes since we didn't go over it with the disc harrow. But once you get through that first tough pass, everything gets easier.Every now and then, I can hear that slip clutch slipping when it hits something really stiff in there.Now he's back in the side that's only been plowed and gone through the tiller on one side, and that's a lot tougher area but it's doing well. And there's a big difference between that ground that's never been a garden for 20 years and that that has for six years. So every time you do it, it just gets better and better.So we've got our disc harrow hooked to the B over here. You've seen how that worked. You've seen how the tiller worked. You can make your comparison there. The one thing you can be assured of, the more you do it, the more your garden gets matured. And if you get it plowed in the fall and it freezes and thaws, the disc is going to do a lot better job. A bigger disc does an even better job, so we've got both on that. The plow's been used. You saw that worked a foot deep, no problem with either tractor. We've gone over it with a combination of the disc to see what it does, the tiller so you can judge that. We've got a garden bedder where we're going to heal for our squash and things like that that you don't want to get/stay wet after it rains and rot. We're going to go over it with a cultipacker just to show you what part of it would do if you were planting a food plot for the deer or something. We've got a set of pallet forks over here that'll go on the B because it has a quick attach on it to unload all of these attachments, is what we used it for off the trailer. We've got a larger garden bedder that we're going to use on the B. We're going to use the G50 on the BX, and we also have a 110 cultivator where we can cultivate the rows until they get about that high so all the packed down areas from the tractor tires and from you walking and so forth get loosened up and the nutrients and the water can get in the soil. We'll be doing all of that hopefully tomorrow or the next day, depending on what the weather does. But for today, we know we've got rain coming in and this is about the end of it. So for today, we're done. Give us a call or an email at Everything Attachments. We can help you with any of your gardening or landscaping needs and help size the right attachment for your tractor and hopefully, the videos will help you know how to use and adjust your equipment. Thank you.
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